From a small farm in the heart of Trøndelag, Maren Gangstad and the family business have played a key role in putting Norwegian cheese on the map.
Idyllically and centrally located along the culinary and cultural itinerary "The Golden Circle" in Inderøy municipality, is Gangstad Gårdsysteri. It is so rural here that the grass actually seems greener on the other side of the fence, which the farm's curious, grazing heifers regularly investigate.
The mischievous heifers will soon become milk cows and provide liters of the most important raw material in the production of excellent cheese.
It is with a tasty combination of food science knowledge and quality craftsmanship that Maren Gangstad (35) and her family have revitalized Norwegian cheese production.
It has taken the cheese industry from local to global success.
Blåmuggosten Nidelven Blå took home the gold in the world championship last year in competition with 4,502 cheeses from 43 different nations.
Prestigious is just the first word.
- Winning gold in the cheese world championship still feels like a dream. But we keep our feet on the ground and take no shortcuts. It's all about patience, diligence and clean ingredients, says Maren Gangstad, educated at the Norwegian University of Life Sciences (NMBU) in Ås.
- The studies gave me the tools to rethink cheese, and insight into finances, business operations, product development and quality control. Today, we offer something that is both genuine and innovative, she says.
Now Spaniards, Britons, Americans, Australians and Germans are clamoring for all-Norwegian cheese products from Gangstad Gårdsysteri.
Maren helped send the first cheeses out of the country.
- We see that Norwegian cheese not only competes, but also sets the standard internationally, says Maren.
Two other Norwegian-produced cheeses have also achieved the world championship title in this heyday for Norwegian cheese: "Kraftkar" from Tingvollost" (2016) and "Fanaost" from Ostegården (2018).
A maturation process
The cheese factory at Inderøy has its roots back to 1998, when the parents-in-law established the country's first authorized farm cheese factory for cow's milk.
The methods have matured over decades and the pioneering project currently employs 12 full-time workers and produces over 52 tonnes of cheese annually. In 2024, the business expects a turnover of NOK 24 million.
Demand is increasing and we are working hard to saturate the market.
Recently, a completely modern barn saw the light of day. An expensive but necessary investment, according to Maren.
- The investment is important for the future of the cheese industry and for our sustainable ambitions for more production and innovation, she says.
From Jarlsberg to Nidelven Blå
The last few decades have been a renaissance for Norwegian cheese. From a time when the selection in the shop consisted of key cheese, brown cheese, parmesan and camembert, Norwegian cheese has made seven-mile strides both in range and on the world map.
- In Norway, cheese traditions are long, but the commercial sale and production of farm cheese has a fairly short history, says Maren.
The world famous Jarlsberg is tangible proof that Norwegian research in the early 1950s helped to pave the way. The cheese with the incomparable taste was created at NMBU when researchers tried to make bigger holes in traditional white Gouda cheese.
As a NMBU student, she learned a lot about milk, milk quality, microbiology, hygiene and cheese technology.
- The secret behind the characteristic holes and taste in Jarlsberg was to add propionic acid bacteria to the whey, says Maren about the research at the Faculty of Chemistry, Biotechnology and Food Science.
Gangstad's reigning world champion, Nidelven Blå itself, needs six months of storage and maturation before it can be enjoyed. The cheese is complex, but not among the strongest in its class.
- One of the tricks is that during the breakdown of protein it develops tiny "ripening crystals" that turn into irresistible flavor bombs, says Maren and smiles.
The rest are trade secrets.
Several of the cheeses from Gangstad are served in the country's star restaurants and luxury hotels. Sales take place via selected wholesale and retail chains, in addition to the charming farm shop adjacent to the cheese factory.
- But we don't send cheese or ice cream in the post, even if someone asks about it, laughs Maren.
The raw material is the hero
"You are what you eat", they say. And the cows at Gangstad Gård eat first class every day. The fauna in Inderøy is luxuriant, and delicacies such as four-leaf clover, grass, meadow flowers and hay go down very well.
It makes good cheese.
- The raw material is the hero. Without top quality milk, we are also unable to make cheese of the best quality, says Maren.
She shares the honor with her family, employees – and the cows.
- I have so many strong, clever people who inspire me, both at work and in private life. This is a team sport, she says.
This year's World Cheese Championships will be held in Portugal on the eve of November. Gangstad Gårdsysteri has, among other things, entered the red washed rind cheese "Granstubben", Norway's answer to Mont D'Or.
We're just mentioning it. The cheese world is hereby warned.